Sweet Potato and Apple Gratin

This sweet potato side dish would be a lovely addition to your Thanksgiving table; it's not nearly as sugary as many sweet potato recipes, but gets an extra touch of sweetness from the roasted apple.

Ingredients:

• 3 cups thinly sliced and peeled Granny Smith apple
• 1 teaspoon lemon juice
• 4 thinly sliced and peeled small sweet potatoes (about 2 pounds)
• 1/4 cup maple syrup
• 1 tablespoon melted vegan butter
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
• Cooking spray
• 2 (1-ounce) slices white bread
• 2 teaspoons olive oil
• 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1. Combine the apple and lemon juice in a large bowl tossing to coat.

2. Add the sweet potatoes, maple syrup, butter, salt, and black pepper.

3. Spoon the sweet potato mixture into a 13x9-inch baking dish coated with cooking spray.  Bake at 400 degrees for 40 minutes, stirring at the 25 minute mark.

4. Place the bread slices in a food processor and pulse about 10 times, until coarse crumbs equal 1 cup.  Combine the breadcrumbs in a bowl with the olive oil and nutmeg.

5. Sprinkle the breadcrumb mixture over the sweet potato mixture and bake for an additional 15 minutes - the top of the gratin should be golden.

6. Let stand for 10 minutes before serving, so the juices can thicken.

Round out the meal with the Thanksgiving works. Shortcuts here and there can't hurt, and I recommend the vegan stuffing mix from Whole Foods, and biscuits made from a mix:

I also enjoyed the gratin with Whole Foods canned whole berry cranberry sauce, and a simple braised lentil dish:

For the centerpiece of the meal, try my Mushroom and Caramelized-Shallot Strudel if you're up for cooking, or Gardein's stuffed turkey if you're not.

Finally, I highly recommend my Gingered Pumpkin Pie for dessert, but if you want a fun shortcut, try canned sweetened pumpkin spread onto gingersnap cookies:

Nutrition Info:
8 servings (1 portion), Calories 214 

Tasting Notes:
The sweet potatoes are definitely the star of the show here, with just a light hint of maple syrup. I would definitely increase the apple, so the gratin is closer to a 50/50 apple-to-sweet potato ratio. The top layer of the gratin dried out in the oven, so use more liquid, whether water or apple juice added at the same time as the maple syrup.  The breadcrumbs were, however, a fresh, crunchy alternative to a streusel topping. To make this one notch better, I would increase the nutmeg.

Rating:
3.5

Vegan extra:
It's the right time of year to eat your orange and yellow veggies, but if you're not a sweet potato fan, there are plenty of others to choose from. For the easiest side dish ever, bake a spaghetti squash, scrape out the flesh with a fork to form long "spaghetti" strands, and top with olive oil and vegan Parmesan sprinkles:

Plantains in Temptation Sauce

I've had plantains sitting on my counter for two weeks now, turning from a slightly yellowish-green to inky black, and so soft to the touch they feel like they could burst with a slight squeeze. That means it was finally time to make this recipe.

With regards to temptation sauce, I couldn't dig up the origin of this sweet sauce online, but it looks to be a traditional Venezuelan recipe.  Armed with my soft black plantains, I was ready to give it try.

Ingredients:
For the plantains:

• 2 teaspoons canola oil, divided
• Cooking spray
• 2 cups (1-inch thick) sliced soft black plantains*

For the sauce:

• 3/4 cup vegan sugar
• 3/4 cup water
• 3/4 cup sherry vinegar
• 2 teaspoons grated lime rind, divided
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
• 1 tablespoon vegan butter

1. To prepare the plantains, heat 1 teaspoon of the canola oil in a medium skillet coated with cooking spray over medium heat.  Add half of the plantains; cook for 2 minutes on each side, until golden brown.  Remove from the pan and repeat the procedure with the remaining canola oil and plantains.  Set aside.

2. To prepare the sauce, place the sugar in a heavy saucepan and cook over medium heat for about 9 to 12 minutes, until the sugar dissolves; stir as needed so the sugar dissolves evenly.

Note: The trick is to keep the sugar in an even layer in the pan, and don't let the heat creep too high. You won't see much happen until the last few minutes, when the sugar will turn golden and dissolve into a thick syrup.

3. Combine the water and sherry vinegar; carefully add to the sugar, stirring constantly (the mixture will bubble).  Continue to cook for 2 minutes, until the sugar dissolves.

Note: Don't be alarmed if the sugar crystallizes for a moment. It likely will do so once the water and vinegar hit it, but then will dissolve into the liquid in the ensuing 2 minutes or so. Don't bother trying to stir; you'll just spill and slosh liquid about.

4. Add 1 and 1/2 teaspoons lime rind, the cinnamon, and the cloves.  Increase the heat to medium-high and cook for 25 minutes, until reduced to 1 cup. Stir in the plantains and cook for a final 2 minutes, spooning the sauce over the plantains.  Stir in the butter, keeping over the burner long enough for the butter to melt.  Sprinkle with the remaining 1/2 teaspoon lime rind as garnish.

Because I like mixing and matching cuisines, I served the plantains with an edamame and shiitake mushroom saute (which, incidentally, was delicious in the temptation sauce that ran into it on the plate). 

*I won't walk you through all the steps of how best to ripen a plantain, because whoever wrote the text at this link does so perfectly (I laugh every time). But here are just a few quick visuals:

The plantains just after purchasing, about 2 weeks away from making the recipe:

The plantains after about 1 week.  Still a week away from making the recipe:

And finally, the black, ready-to-use plantains:

Nutrition Info:
8 servings (1/2 cup), Calories 145

Tasting Notes:
This is the most patient I've ever been with plantains, and the wait is worth it; thick, sweet slices, like a sweeter and meatier banana, with a coating of cinnamon and lime.  The temptation sauce was - yes indeed - tempting. Very strong from the sherry vinegar, but also so good you'll eat it by the spoonful, with the vinegar tamed by the sugar, silkiness from the butter, and citrusy fresh lime.  I would definitely use more plantain next time though, for a higher plantain-to-sauce ratio.

Rating:
4

Update:
I made this again using balsamic vinegar instead of sherry vinegar and oh my, it was instantly elevated to a "5." The balsamic was sweeter and thicker in flavor, with beautiful fig and grape notes, and actually made the plantains taste like thick banana French toast in maple syrup (I kid you not).

I also took the opportunity to slice more diagonal cuts of plantain, yielding in a larger surface area to brown in the skillet, and cooked them until more golden brown.

Fantastic changes.

Gingered Pumpkin Pie

Last November, I went slightly non-traditional, with a sweet potato tart. This year, I'm craving good old-fashioned pumpkin pie - although I've added a streusel topping for a twist.

Ingredients:

• 1 (8-ounce) pie dough*
• 10 gingersnap cookies (such as Mi-del)
• 2 tablespoons vegan sugar
• 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
• 2 tablespoons vegan butter
• 3/4 cup vegan sugar
• 1 and 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
• 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 1 (15-ounce) can unsweetened pumpkin
• 1 and 1/2 cups evaporated non-dairy milk**
• 4 Ener-G eggs

1. Roll the dough into a 12-inch circle, and fit into a 10-inch deep-dish pie plate.  Fold the edges under and flute; freeze for 30 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, combine the gingersnap cookies in a food processor with 2 tablespoons sugar and the flour; process until the cookies are ground.  Cut the butter into small pieces and add to the food processor; pulse until the mixture is crumbly; set aside.

3. Combine the remaining 3/4 cup sugar in a bowl with the cinnamon, ginger, salt, nutmeg, pumpkin, evaporated milk, and Ener-G eggs.  Pour the mixture into the prepared crust.

4. Bake at 350 degrees for 35 minutes; this is a good time to make sure your filling is baking okay - the edges should be set by now, but the center will still be liquid.  Sprinkle with the cookie mixture and bake for an additional 20 minutes; the center should be set (although wobbly is okay, as it will continue to set as it cools).

Cool to room temperature on a wire rack before slicing.

*You can use a store-bought dough such as Wholly Wholesome, but for best results, I recommend making your own.  It adds only about 15 minutes hands-on time to the recipe. Try this homemade pie dough recipe, with Earth Balance butter and shortening.

**Evaporated milk is just what it sounds like - a certain volume of milk that has been evaporated off until condensed to half the original amount. Although a little time consuming, it is very easy to make non-dairy evaporated milk at home. I recommend soy or rice milk, rather than almond, coconut, or other plant-based milks for this particular task.  Start with 3 cups of milk, and cook over medium-low heat until reduced to 1 and 1/2 cups, stirring constantly. It will take about 1 and 1/2 hours.

Before you throw up your hands and abandon this recipe, I urge you to reconsider! Although not something I'd want to do every day, I love taking the time on occasion to evaporate milk. For whatever reason, I find the process extremely meditative. Put on your favorite music, have a book or magazine on hand in case you get bored, and stand and stir while the fall light fades outside the kitchen window. See, it sounds better already, doesn't it? Don't be tempted to turn up the heat on the burner; you'll scorch the milk. Patience is a virtue in this case, and you'll be rewarded when you bite into your homemade pumpkin pie.

Here's an image of the milk about two-thirds of the way done; you can see the line on the pan from the 3 cup mark, and here it's been evaporated down to about 2 cups.

I recommend gently pressing plastic wrap onto the surface of the milk as soon as you're finished; this way, you won't lose any more to evaporation while it cools, and you'll prevent a skin from forming on top.

Nutrition Info:
8 servings (1 wedge), Calories 338 

Tasting Notes:
A fantastically creamy pumpkin filling, with the best double-dose of ginger - ground ginger in the filling, plus the crunch of gingersnap cookies on top. I may never make pumpkin pie without streusel again. My crust was nicely flaky on the bottom, although the tiniest bit too browned at the edges, but that quibble didn't stop me from gobbling up every last little bit of pie.

Rating:
5

Pizza with Caramelized Fennel, Onion, and Olives

Last night I used fennel raw in a creamy white bean spread. But I've always liked fennel best when slow-roasted or caramelized until golden. This fennel topping for pizza fits the bill, and it's elegant but easy.  To streamline preparation, prepare the topping while the dough is rising..

Ingredients:
For the dough:

• 1 and 1/2 teaspoons dry yeast
• 2/3 cup warm water (between 100 and 110 degrees)
• 2 cups all-purpose flour, divided
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• Cooking spray
• 2 teaspoons yellow cornmeal

For the topping:

• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 4 cups thinly sliced fennel bulb
• 2 cups thinly sliced onion
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
• 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
• 1/4 teaspoon black pepper

For the remaining ingredients:

• 1 cup bottled tomato-basil pasta sauce (such as Organicville)
• 1 cup shredded Daiya mozzarella
• 1/4 cup pitted and coarsely chopped kalamata olives

1. To prepare the dough, dissolve the yeast in the warm water in the bowl of a stand mixer and let stand for 5 minutes.  Lightly spoon the flour into dry measuring cups and level with a knife.  Add 1 and 3/4 cups flour and 1/2 teaspoon salt to the yeast mixture; beat with the dough attachment of the stand mixer until smooth.

Note: This is only the second time I've used the dough attachment of my stand mixer, but I was quite pleased with the results. Despite the whirling, unfocused image below, that dough hook was actually turning rather slowly, and it gathers up all the bits of flour into a nice soft ball.

2. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and knead for about 10 minutes, until smooth and elastic.  Add the remaining 1/4 cup flour as needed, 1 tablespoon at a time, to prevent the dough from sticking to your hands. The dough is quite tacky at first, but I only needed an extra 3 tablespoons of the flour.

3. Place the dough in a large bowl coated with cooking spray, turning so the top is coated as well.  Cover and let rise some place warm and free from drafts (such as a closed oven) for 45 minutes - the dough should be doubled in size.

4. Punch the dough down and knead about 5 times; let rest for 15 minutes.  Roll into a 12-inch circle on a floured surface, and transfer to a pizza pan or baking sheet coated with cooking spray and sprinkled with the cornmeal.  Crimp the edges to form a rim and set aside.

5. Meanwhile, prepare the topping: heat the olive oil in a large skillet coated with cooking spray over medium-high heat.  Add the fennel, onion, 1/2 teaspoon salt, oregano, thyme, and black pepper; cook for 20 minutes, stirring frequently, until the fennel is golden.

6. Spread the tomato-basil sauce evenly over the crust, leaving a 1/2-inch border.  Top evenly with the fennel mixture, and sprinkle evenly with the mozzarella and olives.

7. Bake at 450 degrees for 18 minutes, until browned. Cut into 6 wedges to serve.

Nutrition Info:
6 servings (1 wedge), Calories 296 

Tasting Notes:
The topping is piled high, making this like a Chicago-style deep-dish pizza - fantastic. This may be heresy to vegan cheese lovers everywhere, but honestly, the sweet caramelized fennel and salty olives were so good that the Daiya mozzarella was almost superfluous. Don't get me wrong; the gooey cheese was still yummy, but I might try this particular pizza without it next time. The crust had a nice crispness, but was a touch too floury and cornmeal-y, so I'd go easy on the flour during kneading next time.

Update: As should be the case with any pizza worthy of the name, leftovers were equally delicious served cold from the fridge the next day.

Rating:
4

Vegan extra:
An extra note about fennel: because all parts of the plant are edible, including the stalks and fronds, don't discard the unused portions after you slice the bulb for this recipe. Here are just a few of my favorite frond ideas:

Chop as you would fresh herbs like parsley, and stir into a traditional tabbouleh salad for a novel twist.

Stir into any Italian tomato sauce (such as marinara) towards the very end of cooking - the licorice hints are fantastic over pasta, and fennel fronds will become your new tomato sauce secret ingredient.

Because the fronds are similar in texture to dill, use where you would chopped dill, particularly Scandinavian-themed dinners like Tofurky beer brats and beets.

Leave the fronds unchopped and add to any dinner as a pretty garnish, as shown here with baked tofu.

White Bean Spread with Fennel

Fennel is in season, and it's worth incorporating this cousin of celery into your culinary repertoire. Lightly licorice-flavored, fennel is good cooked or raw. I'm normally not a huge fan of raw fennel, but it's just right here, stirred into a chunky white bean spread for contrasting crunch and flavor.

Ingredients:

• 2 tablespoons vegan mayonnaise
• 1 tablespoon fresh-squeezed lemon juice
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/8 teaspoon black pepper
• 1 (16-ounce) rinsed and drained can cannellini beans
• 1/4 cup finely chopped fennel bulb
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped fennel fronds
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped red onion

1. Combine the mayonnaise, lemon juice, salt, black pepper, and cannellini beans in a food processor; pulse 5 to 10 times, until the beans are coarsely chopped.

2. Combine the bean mixture with the fennel bulb, fennel fronds, and red onion in a serving bowl.

Try the spread as a dip - it works great for raw veggies:

Or for bagel chips. A good vegan option is the melba snacks from Devonsheer:

My favorite way to enjoy this spread though, was on bagels, whether plain:

Or turned into a toasted bagel sandwich with slices of tomato:

It works equally well as a sandwich spread on your favorite sliced bread:

Nutrition Info:
5 servings (1/4 cup), Calories 130 

Tasting Notes:
I enjoyed the novel texture of this dip compared to other bean spreads, with chunky fennel and red onion in each bite. Great, subtle licorice undertones from the fennel. I've never used the fronds in this way, and they reminded me of chopped dill. The spread could use a bit more salt and a touch more lemon juice, but was enjoyable on every veggie dipped into it, from snow peas to bell peppers to carrot sticks.

Rating:
3

Update:
I made a second batch and served with the Everything Bagel Chips from Trader Joe's. Although the company doesn't helpfully mark products as vegan, as Whole Foods does, they do have a printable pdf of vegan products, including these bagel chips.

The salty, onion-y flavor was fantastic with the bean spread, helping to offset my desire for more salt and lemon juice in the tasting notes above.